In 1791, two years after the French Revolution, the government decided to launch a crusade against the illegal trade and smuggling that were plaguing the Breton coast. A path took shape along the coastline, weaving in and out of lonely coves, and climbing the heights of the steep cliffs. Customs officers' houses and watchtowers sprang up along its length.

In 1968, two centuries later, the struggle was over. The customs officers disappeared and were replaced by nature lovers. A group of experienced hikers decided to embellish the route with the red and white markers that define long-distance hiking trails in Europe, and it became known as the GR34. In 2018, the trail was voted ‘France's Favourite GR’.

This 2,000-kilometre (1,240 mi) route stretches along the coast between Saint-Nazaire and Mont-Saint-Michel, passing through some of Brittany’s exceptional landscapes. The marshes of Guérande, Cornouaille, the Abers region, the Emerald Coast and the Pink Granite Coast are just some of the marvels to be found along the way. For lovers of history and nature, this extraordinary GR route is much more than just a path, it is a journey through the past.

This week-long Collection takes you on a journey from Morlaix to the beginnings of the sublime Pink Granite Coast. Some beautiful stretches of footpath explore this highly preserved natural environment. Rugged cliffs, formed from millions of years of erosion, vanish into the waters of an ocean that is sometimes calm and gentle, sometimes furious and angry.

There are so many sights to see along the way. Some beaches were trodden by resistance fighters under François Mitterrand, while some ruins bear witness to the passage of the Romans through the region. In small villages, the shops will give you a warm welcome, and you can stop off at one of the many cafés or restaurants to discover more about Breton folklore. Don't forget to keep a Kouign-Amann (sweet, multi-layered cakes) in the pocket of your bag to ward off the odd craving.

You can start the Collection at Morlaix railway station, which is served daily by the Brest-Rennes line. On the return journey, you can hop on a train from Lannion to Guingamp, also served daily by the Brest-Rennes line.

There’s a wide range of accommodation on this section of the GR 34. In the high season, you’ll need to book.

With its easy paths, this section of the GR 34 is passable all year round. There are plenty of shops along the route, so pack light and take the bare essentials with you. In summer, the wind can hide the heat: don't forget to cover your head and hydrate regularly. In winter, Brittany is a particularly wet region: remember to bring appropriate clothing for both cold and rain.

Enjoy your trip!

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Useful links:

The first part of the customs trail between Saint-Nazaire and Pont d'Armes: komoot.com/collection/2419552/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-saint-nazaire-et-pont-d-armes
The second part of the customs trail between Pont d'Armes and Surzur: komoot.com/collection/2422272/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-pont-d-armes-et-surzur
The third section of the customs trail between Surzur and Sarzeau: komoot.com/collection/2428988/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-surzur-et-sarzeau
The fourth section of the customs trail between Sarzeau and Vannes: komoot.com/collection/2431084/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-sarzeau-et-vannes
The fifth section of the customs trail between Vannes and Lorient: komoot.com/collection/2458062/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-vannes-et-lorient
The sixth section of the customs trail between Lorient and Concarneau: komoot.com/collection/2459250/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-lorient-et-concarneau
The seventh section of the customs trail between Concarneau and the Pointe du Raz: komoot.com/collection/2463258/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-concarneau-et-la-pointe-du-raz
The eighth section of the customs trail between Pointe du Raz and Le Fret: komoot.com/collection/2464503/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-la-pointe-du-raz-et-le-fret
The ninth section of the customs trail between Le Fret and Brest: komoot.com/collection/2465755/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-le-fret-et-brest
The tenth section of the customs trail between Brest and Guissény: komoot.com/collection/2470111/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-le-brest-et-guisseny
The eleventh section of the customs trail between Guissény and Morlaix: komoot.com/collection/2471311/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-guisseny-et-morlaix