The Customs Officers’ path – GR 34 in Brittany between Brest and Guissény

In 1791, two years after the French Revolution, the government decided to launch a crusade against the illegal trade and smuggling that were plaguing the Breton coast. A path took shape along the coastline, weaving in and out of lonely coves, and climbing the heights of the steep cliffs. Customs officers' houses and watchtowers sprang up along its length.

In 1968, two centuries later, the struggle was over. The customs officers disappeared and were replaced by nature lovers. A group of experienced hikers decided to embellish the route with the red and white markers that define long-distance hiking trails in Europe, and it became known as the GR34. In 2018, the trail was voted ‘France's Favourite GR’.

This 2,000-kilometre (1,240 mi) route stretches along the coast between Saint-Nazaire and Mont-Saint-Michel, passing through some of Brittany’s exceptional landscapes. The marshes of Guérande, Cornouaille, the Abers region, the Emerald Coast and the Pink Granite Coast are just some of the marvels to be found along the way. For lovers of history and nature, this extraordinary GR route is much more than just a path, it is a journey through the past.

This eight-stage Collection leaves the bustling city of Brest behind to explore the Abers region. "Aber" is Breton for "ria" – a river valley invaded by the sea. Many adjectives could be used to describe these exceptional places, where nature abounds and the landscapes are fascinatingly diverse.

You'll come across countless beaches along the way, some of which are as colourful as paradise. If the sun’s out, it's easy to imagine yourself surrounded by tropical scenery. In the distance, the archipelago of the islands of Molène and Ouessant evoke glorious maritime adventures. Landmarks such as the remains of military installations, large lighthouses and fishing harbours are perfect places to stop and take in your surroundings.

To begin this Collection, you can travel to Brest’s train station, which has daily services from Nantes, Rennes and Paris. From Guissény, take bus line 23 to Lesneven, then Brest (route 21) or Landerneau (route 26).

There’s a wide range of accommodation on this section of the GR 34. In the high season, you’ll need to book.

With its easy paths, this section of the GR 34 is passable all year round. There are plenty of shops along the route, so pack light and take the bare essentials with you. In summer, the wind can hide the heat: don't forget to cover your head and hydrate regularly. In winter, Brittany is a particularly wet region: remember to bring appropriate clothing for both cold and rain.

Enjoy your trip!

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In this Collection, I refer to the notes in my notebook from Brest. To find out more: simonwicart.com/voyage/brest-capitale-du-ponant

Other useful links :

The first part of the customs trail between Saint-Nazaire and Pont d'Armes: komoot.com/collection/2419552/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-saint-nazaire-et-pont-d-armes
The second part of the customs trail between Pont d'Armes and Surzur: komoot.com/collection/2422272/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-pont-d-armes-et-surzur
The third section of the customs trail between Surzur and Sarzeau: komoot.com/collection/2428988/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-surzur-et-sarzeau
The fourth section of the customs trail between Sarzeau and Vannes: komoot.com/collection/2431084/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-sarzeau-et-vannes
The fifth section of the customs trail between Vannes and Lorient: komoot.com/collection/2458062/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-vannes-et-lorient
The sixth section of the customs trail between Lorient and Concarneau: komoot.com/collection/2459250/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-lorient-et-concarneau
The seventh section of the customs trail between Concarneau and the Pointe du Raz: komoot.com/collection/2463258/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-concarneau-et-la-pointe-du-raz
The eighth section of the customs trail between Pointe du Raz and Le Fret: komoot.com/collection/2464503/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-la-pointe-du-raz-et-le-fret
The ninth section of the customs trail between Le Fret and Brest: komoot.com/collection/2465755/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-le-fret-et-brest