The Customs Officers’ Path – GR 34 from Concarneau to Pointe du Raz

In 1791, two years after the French Revolution, the government decided to launch a crusade against the illegal trade and smuggling that were plaguing the Breton coast. A path took shape along the coastline, weaving in and out of lonely coves, and climbing the heights of the steep cliffs. Customs officers' houses and watchtowers sprang up along its length.

In 1968, two centuries later, the struggle was over. The customs officers disappeared and were replaced by nature lovers. A group of experienced hikers decided to embellish the route with the red and white markers that define long-distance hiking trails in Europe, and it became known as the GR34. In 2018, the trail was voted ‘France's Favourite GR’.

This 2,000-kilometre (1,240 mi) route stretches along the coast between Saint-Nazaire and Mont-Saint-Michel, passing through some of Brittany’s exceptional landscapes. The marshes of Guérande, Cornouaille, the Abers region, the Emerald Coast and the Pink Granite Coast are just some of the marvels to be found along the way. For lovers of history and nature, this extraordinary GR route is much more than just a path, it is a journey through the past.

In this Collection, I invite you to wander along the coastal paths which connect the beautiful city of Concarneau to one of the most symbolic points of western Brittany: the Pointe du Raz. Departing from Concarneau, you’ll follow the coastline westwards. Along the way, you’ll discover pretty towns like Pont-l’Abbé or Audierne. There are many ports in these towns, with fish markets selling freshly caught fish which will delight your taste buds.

The nature here is also fantastic. In the western part of Finistère, you’ll enter an ancestral land – the Bigouden country. The area is steeped in culture and history; the Bigouden headdress typical of Brittany is said to have originated in Pont-l’Abbée. Between its long sandy beaches and its cliffs sometimes tortured by the oceans, you’ll explore numerous protected areas where the fauna and flora thrive.

To start this Collection, you can reach Concarneau by the line 43 regional buses which leave Quimper daily, and where the railway station is served by the Brest-Nantes axis. On the way back, bus line 53b connects Pointe du Raz to Quimper in the high season. The rest of the year, you can take line 52 towards Douarnenez then the 51 or 52b towards Quimper.

This section of the GR 34 has a wide range of accommodation. Remember to book in advance in the high season. At the end of the fifth stage, I suggest wild camping, just remember to leave no trace.

With its easy trails, this portion of the GR 34 is passable all year round. Lots of shops line the route, so pack light and bring the bare essentials. In summer, the wind can mask the heat: don't forget to cover your head and hydrate regularly. In winter, Brittany is a particularly humid region: remember to equip yourself with appropriate clothing, both for the cold and for the rain.

Have a good trip !

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Useful links :

The first part of the customs trail between Saint-Nazaire and Pont d’Armes: komoot.com/collection/2419552
The second part of the customs trail between Pont d’Armes and Surzur: komoot.com/collection/2422272
The third part of the customs trail between Surzur and Sarzeau: komoot.com/collection/2428988
The fourth part of the customs trail between Sarzeau and Vannes:
komoot.com/collection/2431084