The Customs Officers’ path – GR 34 in Brittany between Lorient and Concarneau

In 1791, two years after the French Revolution, the government decided to launch a crusade against the illegal trade and smuggling that were plaguing the Breton coast. A path took shape along the coastline, weaving in and out of lonely coves, and climbing the heights of the steep cliffs. Customs officers' houses and watchtowers sprang up along its length.

In 1968, two centuries later, the struggle was over. The customs officers disappeared and were replaced by nature lovers. A group of experienced hikers decided to embellish the route with the red and white markers that define long-distance hiking trails in Europe, and it became known as the GR34. In 2018, the trail was voted ‘France's Favourite GR’.

This 2,000-kilometre (1,240 mi) route stretches along the coast between Saint-Nazaire and Mont-Saint-Michel, passing through some of Brittany’s exceptional landscapes. The marshes of Guérande, Cornouaille, the Abers region, the Emerald Coast and the Pink Granite Coast are just some of the marvels to be found along the way. For lovers of history and nature, this extraordinary GR route is much more than just a path, it is a journey through the past.

In this seven-stage Collection you’ll leave Lorient and its many ports behind to discover the coastline’s beautiful beaches and picturesque little towns. You’ll observe abers (Breton for ria, or estuary) seeped in ancient history, tide mills, oyster farms, and lush green landscapes bathed in light. You’ll leave the Morbihan behind to cross the border into Finistère, known as the ‘end of the world’, and enter the old town of Concarneau where this magnificent journey ends.

The nature may be breathtaking, but so is the culture and history. The ruins of old canneries and forts along the way keep memories of a different era very much alive. In Pont-Aven, the shadow of the famous painter Paul Gaugin is never far away. In the walled town of Concarneau, the medieval atmosphere will be sure to capture your imagination.

You can reach Lorient via its railway station, which is served several times a day by the Nantes-Quimper and Rennes-Quimper lines. Buses from Concarneau leave for Quimper daily.

There’s a wide range of accommodation on this section of the GR 34. In the high season, you’ll need to book. I suggest wild camping at the end of the fourth stage. Don't forget to be clean and respectful of the environment. If this option doesn't suit you, you can easily find an alternative nearby.

With its easy paths, this section of the GR 34 is passable all year round. There are plenty of shops along the route, so pack light and take the bare essentials with you. In summer, the wind can hide the heat: don't forget to cover your head and hydrate regularly. In winter, Brittany is a particularly wet region: remember to bring appropriate clothing for both cold and rain.

Enjoy your trip!

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Useful links :

The first part of the customs trail between Saint-Nazaire and Pont d'Armes: komoot.com/collection/2419552/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-saint-nazaire-et-pont-d-armes
The second part of the customs trail between Pont d'Armes and Surzur: komoot.com/collection/2422272/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-pont-d-armes-et-surzur
The third part of the customs path between Surzur and Sarzeau: komoot.com/collection/2428988/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-surzur-et-sarzeau
The fourth part of the customs path between Sarzeau and Vannes :
komoot.com/collection/2431084/the-customs-path-gr-34-between-sarzeau-and-vannes
The fifth part of the customs officers' trail between Vannes and Lorient: komoot.com/collection/2458062/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-vannes-et-lorient