The Customs Officers’ path – GR 34 in Brittany part 4

In 1791, two years after the French Revolution, the government decided to launch a crusade against the illegal trade and smuggling that were plaguing the Breton coast. A path took shape along the coastline, weaving in and out of lonely coves, and climbing the heights of the steep cliffs. Customs officers' houses and watchtowers sprang up along its length.

In 1968, two centuries later, the struggle was over. The customs officers disappeared and were replaced by nature lovers. A group of experienced hikers decided to embellish the route with the red and white markers that define long-distance hiking trails in Europe, and it became known as the GR34. In 2018, the trail was voted ‘France's Favourite GR’.

This 2,000-kilometre (1,240 mi) route stretches along the coast between Saint-Nazaire and Mont-Saint-Michel, passing through some of Brittany’s exceptional landscapes. The marshes of Guérande, Cornouaille, the Abers region, the Emerald Coast and the Pink Granite Coast are just some of the marvels to be found along the way. For lovers of history and nature, this extraordinary GR route is much more than just a path, it is a journey through the past.

In this short Collection, you’ll explore part of the Gulf of Morbihan and visit the streets of Vannes, one of Brittany's most beautiful towns. Starting in Sarzeau, the town at the entrance to the Rhuys peninsula, you’ll make your way up the gulf past a series of salt marshes. This is an unrivalled breeding ground for wildlife and a year-round paradise for birdwatchers.

On the peninsula leading towards Port-Anna, the oyster farms steal the show. There are plenty of shacks along the seafront where you can sample fresh oysters from the Gulf.

Finally, to round off the trip, I suggest you put two or three nights aside to explore the medieval city of Vannes. Its ancient stone monuments are a vivid reminder of Brittany’s rich history, while the bustling city centre is a testimony to the region’s vibrant culture.

To reach Sarzeau, the number 22 bus runs from Vannes railway station several times a day. At Vannes, you can take one of the daily trains on the Nantes-Quimper line.

There’s a wide range of accommodation on this section of the GR 34. In high season, you’ll need to book. I suggest wild camping at the end of the second stage. Don't forget that a good camp spot is clean and respectful of the environment. If this option doesn't suit you, you can easily find an alternative nearby.

This section of the GR 34 has good, easy paths that are accessible all year round. There are plenty of shops along the way, so pack light and take only the bare essentials. In summer, the wind can mask the heat, so don't forget to cover your head and hydrate regularly. In winter, Brittany is a particularly wet region: remember to bring appropriate clothing for both the cold and rain.

Enjoy your trip!

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Useful links:
The first part of the Customs’ Trail between Saint-Nazaire and Pont d'Armes: komoot.com/collection/2419552
The second part of the Customs’ Trail between Pont d’Armes and Surzur: komoot.com/collection/2422272
The third part of the Customs’ Trail between Surzur and Sarzeau: komoot.com/collection/2428988