The Customs Officers’ path – GR 34 in Brittany part 3

In 1791, two years after the French Revolution, the government decided to launch a crusade against the illegal trade and smuggling that were plaguing the Breton coast. A path took shape along the coastline, weaving in and out of lonely coves, and climbing the heights of the steep cliffs. Customs officers' houses and watchtowers sprang up along its length.

In 1968, two centuries later, the struggle was over. The customs officers disappeared and were replaced by nature lovers. A group of experienced hikers decided to embellish the route with the red and white markers that define long-distance hiking trails in Europe, and it became known as the GR34. In 2018, the trail was voted ‘France's Favourite GR’.

This 2,000-kilometre (1,240 mi) route stretches along the coast between Saint-Nazaire and Mont-Saint-Michel, passing through some of Brittany’s exceptional landscapes. The marshes of Guérande, Cornouaille, the Abers region, the Emerald Coast and the Pink Granite Coast are just some of the marvels to be found along the way. For lovers of history and nature, this extraordinary GR route is much more than just a path, it is a journey through the past.

In this four-day Collection, you’ll walk the 100-kilometre (62 mi) section of the Customs Officers’ path that runs along the Rhuys peninsula. You start in Surzur, a small inland commune. With the ocean a stone's throw away, you’ll rejoin the shoreline on the first stage. Along the coast, you'll discover the ‘Ar Mor Bihan’, or the ‘Morbihan’, Breton for ‘little sea’. This inland sea is protected by the Rhuys peninsula, creating a rich marine environment, where unspoilt wildlife and sailing enthusiasts exist in harmony.

Along the peninsula, you’ll walk through a succession of sleepy beaches and rugged cliffs. Beautiful modern houses alternate with ancient Neolithic sites. Busy harbours contrast with the calm inland sea. Rain or shine, Brittany exudes an ethereal charm. Every kilometre becomes a poetic journey.

To get to Surzur, take the number 22 bus from Vannes railway station, which runs several times a day, except on Sundays. From Sarzeau, bus 24 runs daily to Vannes, except on Sundays. To get home from Surzur, there are links to Vannes station several times a day and numerous trains to Nantes.

There’s a wide range of accommodation on this section of the GR 34. A campsite or hotel awaits you at the end of each stage. Remember to book early in the high season.

This section of the GR 34 has good, easy paths that are accessible year round. There are plenty of shops along the way, so pack light and take only the bare essentials. In summer, the wind can mask the heat, so don't forget to cover your head and hydrate regularly. In winter, Brittany is a particularly wet region: remember to bring appropriate clothing for both the cold and rain.

Enjoy your trip!

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Useful links:

The first stage of the Customs’ Trail between Saint-Nazaire and Pont d'Armes: komoot.com/collection/2419552
The second part of the Customs’ Trail between Pont d’Armes and Surzur: komoot.com/collection/2422272
The third part of the Customs’ Trail between Surzur and Sarzeau: komoot.com/collection/2428988